Due to the Kiwi experience bus not running on Sunday we had to arrive in Picton a day earlier than we had booked our accommodation. We were told the place was fully booked and it was likely that everywhere in the town was as well. Then we explained we had already booked a room for the next day and we were given mattresses in the TV room. Our main purpose in Picton was to do the Queen Charlotte track which takes you through the Marlborough sounds. We needed a water taxi there and back plus a land pass for the private land we were going through. Our hostel owner recommended we be Anarchists and get a 1 day pass instead of a 2-5 day pass. Being from Yorkshire I don't think Rob really approved of paying money simply to walk over unused land.
Our water taxi dropped us off in a bay that captain Cook had anchored at and met the Maori. After reading a few information signs we were walking through lush native bush in the full heat of summer. The water taxi also did a luggage carrying service making this our most luxurious tramp yet. There were fabulous views of forest and sea. It even had an honesty box with cold ginger beer on offer. The area is full of naughty weka. These flightless birds wander around people in the hope of getting fed. A bag of bananas I left outside the tent for a few minutes was ravaged by these cheeky animals.
The second day we were on the first bit of private land. I was curious if we would have our tickets checked but of course that would happen on the last day on which we weren't covered. We first saw the quad bike with the land abbreviation on it and I felt that oh no feeling. I had my pass on the outside of my bag with the inside facing inwards in the hope the details wouldn't be checked. We were walking past the old man checking the passes and we were asked, "so how long do you think modern civilization will survive for". This of course was the start of a fascinating conversation. Charlie talked about how it's good to get out into nature where things are real rather than being virtual or social constructs. He also told us how Doc signs were too governmental and he much preferred making his own signs with pictures and symbols. At one point he did want to see my pass but only to tell me it gave a discount on the ferry. He finished by giving us some homework which was to list the 4 most important things in life and to get an ice cream from Tanya.
Being good students we did our homework and came up with friendship, money, health and purpose. As all these things are interrelated there is no particular order and we wrote then inside a circle. In addition we decided a walking stick and nice smelling sun cream were also good things to have in life. We handed our homework to Tanya at the finish and had a well deserved ice lolly.
Back in Picton we told Rob our tale. He told us Charlie was a nightmare to deal with and he thought Doc should buy out the land owners so the track could be run properly.
We surprised the kiwi experience bus driver at the ferry terminal. He told us it was too late as he'd already booked the tickets. I told we'd tried to ring the office but they wouldn't pick up the phone (your 3rd in the queue). After some more talking with Marielle he relented and got us on the ferry.
In Wellington we were staying with the lovely Kate and Penny who took us in for the weekend and gave us every home comfort imaginable. They went out of their way to provide us with good food and beer. They loved hearing all our traveling tales and shared their own experiences. We baked a kiwi fruit cake which was so good I felt it needed its own blog entry. Then there was the free tour of parliament which was interesting and good fun.
The highlight was a night tour of Zealandia which is a predator free sanctuary for native plants and animals. Bio security is maintained by a predator proof fence which cannot be climbed, jumped or burrowed past. We spotted kiwis including a baby. Then there were the tuataras, wetas, glow-worms and various birds. It was particularly delightful seeing kiwis after failing every night to spot one on Stewart Island.
It was great being made to feel so welcome and having a chance to see things in Wellington we had missed the first time round
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